Nothing empowers you more in a society than truly interacting with it. The search for housing in this complex city made me feel both helpless and strong at the same time. It allowed me to understand how great I can be in language and in adapting to cultural differences in daily interactions and it also opened a window into the hospitality and helpfulness of the Tunisian people even under the most uncertain and stressful of times.
When I arrived in Tunis a week ago, I visited my host family from 2008 with high hopes that they would take me into their house again. A hassle-free and comfortable option I thought. However, to my surprise, I arrived at their home to find a family of Libyans from Tripoli fleeing from the mass murder that Colonel Qaddafi has inflicted on his people. As protests broke out in Libya, the father of the family bravely spoke out about atrocities such as murder and rape on the internet, informing the world of what is really going on. Two months ago, as Qaddafi’s violence and search for dissidents persisted, the man had no choice but to flee the country with his wife and two small children for neighboring Tunisia. His family made their way to Tunis, the capital, where they were taken in by the kindness of my host mother and brothers. As my search for housing continued, I came to find out that this family’s story is not unique today.
So, I decided to find an apartment for the summer with Vanessa, a girl who I studied abroad with in Tangier, Morocco last summer. The plan was to find an apartment for a couple months and then either move into my host family’s home if the war is over and safe for Libyans to return or move into an Italian convent that houses many other foreigners. I began scouring the pages of La Presse, a French language newspaper in Tunis as well as Tunisie Announce (Tunisia’s Craigslist). This led to the challenge of an impromptu French lesson. I found many places but the prices were far above what I was told I could find in Tunis. Nevertheless, I came across an apartment, two bedrooms, spacious and located just 3 blocks from work! It was at the higher end of my budget but I thought it was worth a shot. I called Vanessa and with the help of a Tunisian friend, Rasha, we found the place. It was beautiful, clean, huge, well furnished… Come to find out, a Libyan family had arrived just before us and scooped it up. This pattern continued. My host mother informed me that an apartment across the street was now running 75 TND/night (more than the hotel I was staying in) due to the influx of Libyan refugees searching for homes. It is for this reason that the price of housing has skyrocketed. Tunisia is dealing with a major refugee crisis. Those who can afford it come to Tunis where they find decent apartments and live comfortably. The majority, who can not afford it, are left in refugee camps on the borders. On any given day there is a line of people from Libya waiting outside their embassy here in Tunis (which is guarded by barbed wire and soldiers) seeking asylum in the country that inspired them to fight for a better Libya. There are also tents lined up along a major road in Tunis with medical services for the wounded fleeing from Libya. It will be interesting to see how this problem unfolds in the coming months with Tunisia still in political limbo and the situation in Libya continuously worsening.
Due to the high price of housing, we began finding announcements for apartments that used to be 300 TND for 600 TND; prices have doubled. One place we looked at was smaller than the size of my bedroom at home that had one small sleeping room, a tiny bathroom and an even smaller kitchen area. To top it off, the place was filthy and there was a man laying on one of the beds in his underwear when the woman showed us the place. There were more like this and we ultimately realized we would have to pay a higher price. Eventually, we found a decent place about a 10-15 minute walk from work at the higher end of out budget. Without the tireless hours spent searching and the generous help of my host brother and students from the American Corner (AC) it would have never been possible. The kindness I have been shown throughout this first week tells me that I am going to have a great year here. Tunisia is a land of hospitality. This is demonstrated both through their interactions with Americans who are simply here to work and Libyans who have nowhere else to go.
My Room

My Kitchen

My Bathroom

My Sitting Room